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   Viewed 211 times - Published on May 29, 2010

Be Jane: Protect Yourself from Head to Toe



It doesn't matter if you are painting a room or knocking down a wall, protecting yourself is key in home improvement. Working with different solvents, sanding and painting can make you vulnerable to particles, fumes and other toxins. In order to protect yourself, here's a list of how to look after your most valuable resource, you!

Hands
Cotton work gloves are helpful for when you are using abrasive tools or items with sharp edges. Great for working with glass. Latex gloves are useful for when you are working with paint, especially non water-based paints which usually can only be removed with alcohol or mineral spirits. Neoprene gloves are made of a durable plastic-like substance. These gloves are very important when working with harsh chemicals like solvents and strippers. Canvas or Leather gloves are much more appropriate when working with wood.

Eyes
It is always important to wear protective eyewear when doing any home improvement. It will protect your eyes from everything from chemical splashes to debris bouncing back at you. It's always best to have a pair of goggles or glasses on at all times. The type to use will depend on the project at hand.

Masks and Respirators
These will protect you from the harsh fumes and dust particles often involved in home improvement. Regardless of the protection, we suggest you do as many projects as possible outside or at the very least, open two windows or doors to create cross-ventilation in the room you are working.

If there is a risk you could inhale a lot of dust, solvent fumes or aerosols, you will need a respirator. We recommend that you check the product labels to see which one will work for your current project.

Apparel
We recommend the right clothes for the job. If that job entails you working with sharp objects or caustic chemicals, the best possible choice would be something that would cover both your arms and legs. It should not be tight in case you need to get yourself in and out of difficult places to access and be careful with loose sleeves to be sure they don't get caught in what you're working on.

Shoes
We know that many of us begin projects impromptu and don't always remember to put on shoes. Just make sure that you are wearing something that will enable you to comfortably and safely get the job done. And just because you feel comfortable in your new heels doesn't make them right for the job! Depending on the task at hand, a good pair of rubber sole shoes should suffice.

Hair
If you hair is long enough to impair your vision in any way, we recommend that you pull it away from your face while working. Doing this can prevent brushing your scalp up against a newly painted wall the day before a black tie affair or something more serious like getting it caught in a power tool.

Remember our take on the old Ford motto aside from quality, safety is always job one! So, always protect yourself and you'll never regret it.

Hugs -n- hammers,
Jane

For detailed project information and more great projects ideas, visit www.BeJane.com





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<i>By Samantha Mazzotta</i><br> <br><br>::::start::::<b>Q:</b> While cleaning out the gutters a few weeks ago, I noticed a couple of shingles on the roof that have been torn slightly, one with a chunk missing from the corner and the other looks loose or pried up. What's the best way to fix them? Should I look for underlying damage? <i>-- Earl C., Omaha, Neb.</i><br><br><b>A:</b> Small tears in asphalt shingles can be patched up pretty quickly using roofing cement. Brush any debris out of the torn or bent area and apply a good amount of cement, then tack down. A shingle with a torn-off corner can be patched by cutting a similar-sized piece from a spare shingle and applying roofing cement both to the underside and along the tear. However, this won't last very long, so the entire shingle should be replaced within a few months -- or you can replace it right away.<br><br><u>Note:</u> Always secure yourself with a rope or harness, and never work without a helper. To replace shingles, you'll need -- in addition to new shingles -- a flat pry bar, a hammer, roofing cement, 7/8-inch or 1-inch roofing nails, and a utility knife.<br>Carefully slide out damaged shingles, beginning with the topmost shingle. Pull out old nails in the repair area, then inspect the exposed building paper for damage. Patch small tears with roofing cement.<br><br>Working from the bottom of the repair area upward, install the new shingles. These should overlap and stagger the row of shingles below. Nail in roofing nails at the tab slots.<br><br>The uppermost shingle won't initially be nailed in, since you need to slip it underneath existing shingles. Instead, flip it over, apply roofing cement to the underside (the part that will slip underneath the shingles above) and gently slide into place. Give the cement a minute to set, then have your helper gently lift the edges of the shingles above while you nail in roofing nails.<br>While you're up there, it's a good time to inspect the rest of the roof and make spot repairs, using roofing cement, to common trouble spots like the flashing around the chimney or roof joints.<br><br><b>HOME TIP:</i> The ideal day to conduct roofing repairs is a dry day that's not too hot or too cold. A moderate temperature allows patching material to set properly.<br><br><i>Send your home repair and maintenance questions to ask@thisisahammer.com, or write This Is a Hammer, c/o King Features Weekly Service, P.O. Box 536475, Orlando, FL 32853-6475. Remember, when in doubt as to whether you can safely or effectively complete a project, consult a professional contractor.<br><br>(c) 2010 King Features Synd., Inc.</i><br><br> Q & A: Don't Put Off Minor Shingle Repairs
   from Jul 23, 2010



If you've ever changed spark plugs, you know how frustrating it is when the socket won't release from the spark plug socket and instead pops off of the extension and stays behind in a hard-to-reach spark-plug well. To prevent this problem, Club member Vic Strauch of Citrus Heights, California, modifies his spark-plug sockets. He first drills a 9/64-in. hole perpendicular to one of the faces of the socket's drive shank. He then uses a No. 8-32 tap to thread the hole (see inset) and installs a matching set screw. When he snaps the socket onto an extension, he simply tightens the set screw to prevent the socket from popping off. This tip works great for low-torque spark plug sockets, but you shouldn't modify any regular-use sockets this way because the drilled hole could cause the socket to crack as higher torque is applied.<br><br><br><img border=0 src=../article-photos/tipspark.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><br><br><i>For more Cool Tips and Handy Tricks log on to www.handymanclub.com</i><br><br>::::second:::: Handy Tip: Spark-Plug Socket Mod
   from Jul 23, 2010



To make it easier to build picture frames, Club member Donald Peters of Pryor, Oklahoma, built this sliding stock support for less than $4. For the slide rails, he attached two lengths of conduit between his miter saw and a 2x10 scrap. He fashioned the sliding table out of two 12-in. squares of plywood, two 12-in.-long hardwood scraps and four short lengths of PVC pipe cut in half to serve as slides. To lock the support table in place, he welded a nut and inserted an eye bolt onto another small length of pipe that’s fitted over one of the slide rails.<br><br><img border=0 src=../article-photos/stock1.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><img border=0 src=../article-photos/stock2.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><i>For more Cool Tips and Handy Tricks log on to www.handymanclub.com</i><br><br> Handy Tip: Sliding Stock Support
   from Jul 10, 2010



<img border=0 src=../article-photos/handy610.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><br>If you own a small oxy-acetylene torch, you'll appreciate this tip from Club member Richard Brooks of Silver Springs, New York. Take a 17-in. length of 1-1/2-in.-dia. PVC pipe and cut a 1/2-in.-wide x 11-in.-long slot in one side. Mount the pipe to the side of the bottle caddy and you'll have a handy place to store the tip assembly. Of course, make sure the tip is cool before you place it in the PVC holder.<br><br><i>For more Cool Tips and Handy Tricks log on to www.handymanclub.com</i> <br><br>::::second:::: Handy Tip: Storing a Welding Torch
   from Jun 13, 2010



<img border=0 src=../article-photos/jane610.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><br>::::start::::<b>Dear Jane:</b> There is so much work to be done around my house and I have absolutely no motivation to take it all on. My last two projects went terribly. What can I do to improve my outlook? <i> - Sarah Butler</i><br><br><b>Dear Sarah:</b> We hear you. There are so many home improvement projects that warrant a little procrastination. Especially those home maintenance and seasonal projects that you know have to be done but you keep avoiding because you're too busy, uninspired, or afraid to tackle.<br><br>But the truth is that many of these projects get more daunting and difficult with time. Delay can create not only more work in the long run, it can actually put a crippling grip on your ability to start newer, more fun projects. So how do you get the procrastination monkey off your back, get those backlogged (but necessary) chores done, and open up your ambition again to take on what you really want to do? <br><br>Procrastination is quite a strong force; often it allows us to ignore the most important of priorities in lieu of doing things we might prefer to do. The good news is that there are tools to help you tame the procrastination beast, ultimately making you happier and much more productive in the long run.<br><br>Here are a few methods that have worked for the members of the Be Jane community:<br><br><b>Lists vs. Rewards:</b> We like to call this the "gold star" method. When you were in school and the teacher rewarded your work with a gold star, you were often motivated to try harder to get another one. So, apply this same process to your own projects. Start by listing everything you know you need to accomplish and then determine an appropriate reward for completing each project. Be realistic in the tasks you need to complete and the timelines you establish. Also, make sure you actually reward yourself after each task has been completed. (That's the fun part!) <br><br><b>Gradual Method:</b> Another method is to work on a given project for short bursts. Since procrastination won't vanish overnight, you'll need to be somewhat therapeutic about it. So, gradually work it in. Start on a project for ten minutes at a time. You can even say, "I'm going to work on this for no more than ten minutes." Set a timer and when it goes off, leave the project and go at it again for another ten minutes and so on. This at least gets you started and there's a good chance that once you start, you'll eventually keep going until you're finished. <br><br><b>Do It Now:</b> It's easy to convince yourself that you have enough time to accomplish everything you want. But as we all know, that window of time closes all too quickly. So, another method is that the moment you think to do it, do it! Don't wait around for the right time to complete a task; take action the moment it pops into your head. <br><br><b>Avoid Perfection:</b> Perfection is essential when it comes to building a space shuttle, but not so much when painting your bedroom. If you're a bit of a perfectionist it's probably affecting your ability to start a project. Learn to ease up on yourself. Perfection in home improvement is a relatively unachievable goal, so don't convince yourself otherwise. The mistakes you make in your present will always help you to improve your future. If you just can't help it, take a page from modern management theory: strive for excellence, not perfection. <br><br>Home improvement tasks are prime candidates for procrastination. From fixing that leak to patching the driveway, projects are sometimes things we like to plan for and dream about, but take forever to actually complete. But by following a few of the tips we laid out, we know that you'll get one step closer-one step at a time-and before you know it, you'll be done. <br><br>Get working and good luck!<br><br><i>Hugs n' hammers<br>Jane</i> <br><br>For detailed project information and more great projects ideas, visit www.BeJane.com<br> How to Stop Procrastinating and Start Working
   from Jun 13, 2010



<img border=0 src=../article-photos/jane529.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br>::::start::::It doesn't matter if you are painting a room or knocking down a wall, protecting yourself is key in home improvement. Working with different solvents, sanding and painting can make you vulnerable to particles, fumes and other toxins. In order to protect yourself, here's a list of how to look after your most valuable resource, you!<br><br><b>Hands</b><br>Cotton work gloves are helpful for when you are using abrasive tools or items with sharp edges. Great for working with glass. Latex gloves are useful for when you are working with paint, especially non water-based paints which usually can only be removed with alcohol or mineral spirits. Neoprene gloves are made of a durable plastic-like substance. These gloves are very important when working with harsh chemicals like solvents and strippers. Canvas or Leather gloves are much more appropriate when working with wood.<br> <br><b>Eyes</b><br>It is always important to wear protective eyewear when doing any home improvement. It will protect your eyes from everything from chemical splashes to debris bouncing back at you. It's always best to have a pair of goggles or glasses on at all times. The type to use will depend on the project at hand. <br><br><b>Masks and Respirators</b><br>These will protect you from the harsh fumes and dust particles often involved in home improvement. Regardless of the protection, we suggest you do as many projects as possible outside or at the very least, open two windows or doors to create cross-ventilation in the room you are working. <br><br>If there is a risk you could inhale a lot of dust, solvent fumes or aerosols, you will need a respirator. We recommend that you check the product labels to see which one will work for your current project. <br><br><b>Apparel</b><br>We recommend the right clothes for the job. If that job entails you working with sharp objects or caustic chemicals, the best possible choice would be something that would cover both your arms and legs. It should not be tight in case you need to get yourself in and out of difficult places to access and be careful with loose sleeves to be sure they don't get caught in what you're working on.<br><br><b>Shoes</b><br>We know that many of us begin projects impromptu and don't always remember to put on shoes. Just make sure that you are wearing something that will enable you to comfortably and safely get the job done. And just because you feel comfortable in your new heels doesn't make them right for the job! Depending on the task at hand, a good pair of rubber sole shoes should suffice.<br><br><b>Hair</b><br>If you hair is long enough to impair your vision in any way, we recommend that you pull it away from your face while working. Doing this can prevent brushing your scalp up against a newly painted wall the day before a black tie affair or something more serious like getting it caught in a power tool. <br><br>Remember our take on the old Ford motto aside from quality, safety is always job one! So, always protect yourself and you'll never regret it.<br><br><i>Hugs -n- hammers,<br>Jane</i><br> <br>For detailed project information and more great projects ideas, visit www.BeJane.com<br><br>::::third:::: Be Jane: Protect Yourself from Head to Toe
   from May 29, 2010



<img border=0 src=../article-photos/fanfan.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><br>::::start::::<b>Dear Jane:</b> Any ideas for do-it-yourself projects to save me money on cooling my house this summer? Last year my utility bills were through the roof! </i> - Claire M. <br><br><b>Dear Claire:</b> Yes! Installing a ceiling fan is a great way to cut back on your utility bills. It's a simple <br>do-it-yourself project and can help you stay cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Plus, you will be helping the earth by reducing your energy consumption. Here's how to get started: <br><br><b>MATERIALS:</b><br><br>TOOLS<br>Ladder <br>Screwdriver <br>Tape measure <br>Wire cutter<br><br><b>SUPPLIES</b><br>Fan kit <br>Light bulbs<br><br><b>PROJECT STEPS</b><br><br><u>Step 1</u><br>When choosing a ceiling fan, remember to consider blade size, motor speed, materials and lighting options. Make sure the blade size is compatible with the size of the room. <br><br><u>Step 2</u><br>Remove the existing light fixture, making sure to shut off the circuit at the circuit breaker or fuse box, not just the light switch. Remove mounting bolts and disconnect the electrical wires, saving all wire nuts and caps.<br><br>Using a screwdriver, attach the fan's mounting bracket to the electrical box, making sure all connections are tight.<br><br><i>SAFETY TIP:</i> Never rely on ceiling material alone to support your fixture. Check the mount of the electrical box to be sure it's anchored firmly to a structural support or rafter. <br><br><u>Step 3</u><br>Connect the circuit wires using the wire connectors or caps provided in your installation kit or use the ones you removed from your old fixtures. Don't use electrical tape in place of the caps. Match up the colors of the wires. Most kits have white and black fan wires where you match white to white and black to black. Blue wires are used for the lighting. The grounding wire connecting to the lead is usually green or copper. Check the manufacturer's instructions if you're unsure or if the colors don't match up.<br><br><u>Step 4</u><br>Slip on the ceiling cover and attach it firmly, making sure you tuck in all wires and the mount is flush to the ceiling. This is a two person job; have one person hold the fan while the other connects the wires. <br><br><u>Step 5</u><br>Attach the fan motor to the mounting bracket according to manufacturer's instructions, then switch the power back on to test the connections. If they check out, turn the power back off at the switch plate and the fuse box before continuing with installation. <br><br>Using your screwdriver, put on the motor cover, if your kit includes one. Attach each fan blade securely to its mounting bracket, then attach each one to the fan motor. After all blades have been attached, switch the power back on at the fuse box and the switch plate. <br><br>If your fan wobbles or shakes after installation, double-check that all connections are tight. If it still wobbles, purchase a ceiling fan balancing kit which uses small weights to even out the rotation. <br><br>Thanks for your question!<br><br><i>Hugs -n- hammers,<br>Jane<br><br>For detailed project information and more great projects ideas, visit www.BeJane.com</i><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br> Ask Jane: Installing A Ceiling Fan
   from Apr 14, 2010



<img border=0 src=../article-photos/allergies415.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><br>::::start::::<b>Dear Jane,</b> My kids have terrible allergies. What can I do around the house to ease their suffering this season? I am uncertain where to start and don't want to spend a lot of money, if possible. I just want to help them be more comfortable. <i>- <br>Thanks, Mary D. of Hartsdale, NY</i><br><br><b>Dear Mary,</b> While all the allergy-proofing in the world won't completely eliminate your kids' symptoms, there are many steps you can take to drastically reduce allergens in the home. Studies have proven that the air inside the home is frequently dirtier than that outside, which can spell trouble for people with allergies or asthma. Here's what you can do: <br><br><b>1) Get Rid of the Carpeting</b><br>Carpeting keeps the room warm and cozy, but it's also a net for trapping allergens. Dust mites, mold and pollen get caught in carpet fibers and therefore trigger allergies. Vacuuming frequently can help, but people with severe allergies should consider ripping up the carpet and replacing it with hardwood, tile, linoleum, or any hard surface flooring.<br><br><b>2) Install Shades</b><br>Dust and dirt tend to collect on blinds which are difficult to clean. Maintaining your privacy may be better achieved through washable roll-up shades.<br><br>Shades are as easy to install as blinds and are relatively inexpensive. Go for a cotton or synthetic fabric that you can remove and throw into the washing machine. To kill dust mites, you'll want to wash the textiles frequently and in hot water (about 130 degrees.)<br><br><b>3) Rethink Your Air System</b><br>When you turn on the heat or air conditioning, air isn't the only thing that comes out-dust particles do, too. To keep dust at bay, cover the vents with cheesecloth or mesh. Also, change out your air filters regularly (every three months).<br><br>Allergy experts also recommend using an air purifier to help relieve symptoms. Purifiers, especially those equipped with a HEPA (High Efficiency Particle Arrestor) filter, help rid the air of allergens and pollutants, but don't heat or cool the air. <br><br><b>4) Bid Farewell to Junk</b><br>Clutter generates dust so, if you were ever thinking about going minimalist, here is the perfect excuse to do it now. Get rid of any old books, magazines or children's toys that are no longer being used. Ultimately, you are looking for clean, bare walls, shelves and tables. If you can't bear to part with some of your belongings, store them in the garage or a storage unit. (For those stuffed animals that must stay, wash them in hot water or stick them in the freezer for a couple of hours to kill dust mites).<br><br><b>5) Clean Regularly</b><br>Cleaning religiously is a vital part of controlling allergies. If you can't replace your wall-to-wall carpeting, make sure to vacuum weekly. There are HEPA-filter vacuums available that prevent dust and dirt from becoming airborne while you vacuum. Still, people with severe asthma or allergic reactions to dust should not be operating the vacuum, so have someone else do it for you.<br><br>We hope this helps. Good luck! <br><br><i>Hugs -n- hammers,<br>Jane<br><br>For detailed project information and more great projects ideas, visit www.BeJane.com</i><br> Ask Jane: Allergies And Your Home Comfort
   from Apr 14, 2010



In his construction business, Club member Adam Wood of Pacific Grove, California, often needs to carry heavy 5-gallon buckets. Because the thin handles on the buckets are uncomfortable to grip, he created auxiliary handles out of short sections of 1-in.-dia. dowels and a pair of 2-1/2-in. ceiling hooks.<br><br><img border=0 src=../article-photos/handy318.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><br><i>For more Cool Tips and Handy Tricks log on to www.handymanclub.com</i> <br><br>::::second:::: Handy Tip: Better Bucket Handle
   from Mar 26, 2010



To keep his miter gauge close at hand, Club member E.V. Cohen of Orlando, Florida, mounted a short length of PVC pipe to the leg of his table saw. Although he used 1/4-in. x 20 machine screws to fasten the pipe to the saw's leg, band-style hose clamps would work as well. <br><br><br><img border=0 src=../article-photos/handy3-4.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><br>For more Cool Tips and Handy Tricks log on to www.handymanclub.com<br><br><br><br><br><br> Handy Tip: Handy Miter Gauge Storage
   from Mar 8, 2010



<b>Dear Jane:</b> Is there anything I can do to stop my wood floors from squeaking? While I can appreciate it at my great-grandparents' old homestead, it drives me crazy that my not-so-old house has squeaky floors. <i>- Thanks, Sandra M.</i><br><br><b>Dear Sandra:</b> While wood floors are beautiful, they can be quite talkative! This noise is usually caused when loose flooring boards rub together, or is the result of a loose nail sliding up and down on a piece of wood. There is a slight chance that the flooring is rubbing against pipes or ducts, so be sure to check this out before tackling any repairs. <br><br>The good news about your squeaky floor is that you have many options for repairing it. Most home improvement stores sell squeaky floor "kits" that may be all you need. Before even heading to the store, try pouring baby powder into the squeaky spot(s). This will absorb the space between the boards and may be all you need to finally get some peace. For more complicated projects, we recommend that you fix squeaks from the bottom up, meaning you should try to get underneath the spot(s) where the squeaking is occurring, if possible. Usually this means putting on grubby clothes (remember those acid-washed jeans?) and going underneath the house with a flashlight.<br><br>Your goal is to find the precise spot of the loose floorboard and attach it to the subfloor. You may want to grab a friend and have her walk around to find the exact location while you listen from below. If possible, use a cell phone, since shouting through the floor isn't always terribly productive.<br><br>Once you locate the spot, most of the time all you'll need to do is drive a nail or self-tapping trim screw into it, connecting the loose board to the subfloor. (A self-tapping screw just refers to how the screw fastens to the material.) Pick a nail or screw that's long enough to connect well into the squeaky board, but not so long that it'll poke up through your flooring.<br><br>If you can't get underneath the noise, you can go at it from the top. First, drill a pilot hole into the floor at angle where you hear the noise coming from. (Drilling the holes prevents the wood from splitting) Then, drive a finish nail directly into the spot. Your nail should be just slightly larger than the pilot hole. It is recommended that you use a nail set or gun to drive the nail head beneath the surface, then hide this hole with like-colored wood putty. <br><br>There are several other methods used to conquer a noisy floor involving shims, cleats, steel bridging, etc. How to fix your squeak depends upon how the wood looks, sounds, and what kind of access you have to the subfloor. It's not a difficult repair to make, but finding the exact spot can be tricky, so good luck putting a lid on it!<br><br>Now if you could only do the same with that noisy neighbor...<br> <br><br>Hugs -n- hammers,<br>Jane <br><br><i>For detailed project information and more great projects ideas, visit www.BeJane.com</i><br> Shhhh! Help Me Silence That Squeaky Floor!
   from Mar 7, 2010



You'll never misplace your work pencil again if you follow this tip from Club member Terry Hallead of Oxford, Michigan. Just grab an old baseball cap and make a pair of slits at the point where the bill meets the side of the cap. Cut the slits to fit your pencil (be it a carpenter's or a round pencil) and slip it into place, where it will be handy whenever you need it.<br><br><img border=0 src=../article-photos/tip225.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br>For more Cool Tips and Handy Tricks log on to www.handymanclub.com<br><br><br> Handy Tip For Easy Pencil Access
   from Feb 26, 2010



Help! I Can't Find Anything on My Desk<br><br>::::start::::Is your home office a complete and utter mess? Do you always meet clients someplace (anyplace!) other than your office? If this is you, not to worry - you're not alone. With all your files, supplies, samples and other paperwork, it is easy to let your home office get out of control. But with only a little planning, you can bid goodbye to a chaotic and unproductive home office. <br><br><b>Go Big</b><br>Take a look at your home office. Is it a mish mash of furniture, boxes, and files? Alternately, perhaps you are in the process of converting a spare room into an office and your space is completely bare. Either way a multi-piece station may be the answer. Consider a desk that fits around the entire room that sits against the walls. They're available at home organization stores and include shelving, desks, chairs, and storage knick knacks. You can even assemble and install it yourself for extra savings.<br><br><br><img border=0 src=../article-photos/jane225.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><br><b>Use the Wall</b><br>The walls of your home office should do more than just stare back at you--put them to work! Walls are frequently overlooked as means for storage. With shelving and corkboard, your walls will create space for files, books, pictures, and pieces of paper. If you are feeling more ambitious, you can build a message board to take notes and mount clippings. Assess your desk mess: is there anything that can go onto shelves? Eliminate the items you do not need on a daily basis and you can probably eliminate 80% of what is sitting on your desk right now.<br><br><b>Scrap It</b><br>Is your desk littered with little scraps of paper? Post-it notes scribbled with reminders? Receipts? If the answer is "yes" (and it probably is) try to get rid of as many pieces of paper as you possibly can. File them, toss them or put them on a larger to-do list. <br><br><b>Put your Computer to Work</b><br>Think of your computer as one giant storage space. Computers keep information organized much better than you can; they are built to organize all of your information into specific folders and files, all without using any paper. Use your computer's calendar and contact programs to keep appointments and store business card information. Also, scan any important documents you need to keep and then back up all of the information by copying it onto disks.<br><br><b>Convert a Closet</b><br>Often a home office is a spare bedroom. If this is the case, use the former clothes closet for office storage. You can easily install shelves or a wall unit inside a closet. Taking the doors off the closet can open the room and provide easy access to your belongings. However, if you aren't quite organized yet, you may just want to keep those doors and close them when you are not working. <br><br><b>Toss, Shred or File?</b> <br>Many people put off organizing their home office because they aren't sure what paper to toss, shred or file. Some legal, tax, retirement and property documents have to be saved, along with receipts for big-ticket purchases (for insurance purposes, in case they are ever stolen). Here's a quick checklist:<br><br><b>What to Toss:</b><br>Junk mail and old catalogs<br>Magazines (clip and file interesting articles)<br>Expired coupons or warranties<br><br><b>What to Shred:</b><br>Bank statements<br>Credit card applications<br>Bills<br>ATM records or receipts bearing your bank account information<br>Checks (voided and canceled) <br><br><b>What to File:</b><br>Any tax-related documents or receipts (most tax documents can be shredded after 7 years)<br>Credit card statements<br>Investment records<br>Insurance information<br>Operating instructions for appliances<br>Receipts and warranties for expensive purchases<br><br><br><b>Practice Constant Upkeep</b><br>Staying organized is a process that requires you to act mindfully. It's unrealistic to think that an organized workspace is going to stay that way by itself. If you spend ten minutes a day on this, you'll be shocked at how much more productive you can be. Keeping on top of things should become part of your job and not something you can overlook or put off for another day. <br><br>Many people live in a perpetual state of untidiness in fear they will toss something important, but this won't be a problem if you stay organized and focused. By investigating your options and putting in a minimal amount of time and effort, you can have an office that works for you!<br> 7 Tips for Organizing Your Home Office
   from Feb 26, 2010



If ecological concerns make you feel guilty about tossing out the free Internet-access CDs that arrive in the mail, take the cue from Club member Donny Murphy of Granby, Missouri, and give them one more use as trowels. Donny came up with the idea while sealing a leaking skylight and points out that you can use the discs for a variety of troweling chores. Once the work is done, you can save cleanup time by throwing the disc away.<br><br><br><img border=0 src=../article-photos/tips2-18.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><br><i>For more Cool Tips and Handy Tricks log on to www.handymanclub.com</i><br><br> Handy Tip: Free Troweling Tool
   from Feb 20, 2010



<b>Dear Jane:</b> I am struggling on how to create a home office/guestroom in the space I have. I need the room to function well as an office because I have my own home-based business, but I want it to look great for guests. My thoughts are to create a wall bed, desk and shelves, but I don't know the first place to start. Can you help? <i>-- Sincerely, Melissa<br></i><br><br><b> Dear Melissa:</b> Your dilemma is a common one: how do you make one room serve two purposes? With guests visiting only a few times a year, a spare bedroom is rarely used for anything other than storage. But it doesn't have to be that way!<br><br>Amy, a Jane-in-training, had the very same problem. She too worked from home and regularly entertained guests. Jennifer envisioned that glamorous, old-Hollywood look for the room, but more importantly, she didn't want her guests to feel like they were sleeping in an office!<br><br>To kick off this soon-to-be dual-functioning room, we removed her closet and converted it into a chic work station, complete with lights, shelves and storage space. The space could be hidden by long floor-to-ceiling curtains when guests were staying with Jennifer, and pulled back when she was at work.<br><br><br><img border=0 src=../article-photos/jane2.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><br>Since we removed Jennifer's closet altogether, we built a new one! Constructed in a day, this mini-closet holds enough clothes for a guest to hang their hats for a couple of days. Hopefully you don't host guests who stay much longer than that! You could also purchase a large armoire or rolling storage unit.<br><br>To give the room that old Hollywood appeal and make it cozy, we painted the walls a dark metallic grey, then added plush wall panels made of a thin piece of wood wrapped with foam and a luxurious yellow flocked chenille fabric. Not only do these fancy-up the room, but the panels add softness and absorb sound.<br><br>Finally, we mounted mirrors on the wall to keep the space looking roomy. We purchased six full-length mirrors for under $10 a piece, painted the frame white, and arranged them clustered together on the wall.<br><br><br><img border=0 src=../article-photos/jane3.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br> <br><br>Jennifer did have a day bed which helped cut down on space allocated to furniture, and doubles as a great couch. A wall-bed is a good idea too if you want something completely up off the floor. But make sure you have enough room to pull the bed down w<br><br>The overall result? Adual-purpose room that's both glamorous & workable!<br><br>Thanks for your question and good luck! <br><br><i>Hugs -n- hammers,<br><br>Jane</i><br><br> Creating A Multi-Purpose Home Office/Guest Room
   from Feb 20, 2010



Our pets are more than just loyal friends-they're members of our families. As J. Jerome wrote in 1889, "There are many families where the whole interest of life is centered upon the dog." More than a century later, the same holds true for our dogs, cats, birds, reptiles and other pets and now we have scientific verification of the value of loving an animal. Studies have shown that having a pet can be good for your health in terms of lowering your blood pressure.<br><br>But as much as they love us, even pets need a little time to themselves. You want to be sure there is a place in your home that you pet can call their own. Whether it's a dog house, a cat bed, a cage for your iguana, whatever-you want to give your pet retreat to that where he or she can relax and feel safe.<br><br><u>Put Fido in the (Luxury) Doghouse</u><br>Remember when a doghouse consisted of four walls and a roof? Doghouses have come a long way. Nowadays dog houses come in all sizes, even duplexes for more than one pet. Many companies are willing to sell you custom-made dog houses. These can run anywhere from a couple of hundred dollars into the thousands. Many people custom their dog house by breed; for example, a Swiss chalet for a Bernese mountain dog, a Spanish mission for a Chihuahua, etc.<br> <br>If you really want to lavish your dog with the best, consider doghouse amenities. Floor length windows, air conditioners and marble floors are all available in a custom made doghouse. With that kind of opulence why not throw a housewarming party?<br><br><br>You can always design and build your own dog house. If you do, make sure it's twice the size of your dog, the wood is finished, and the flooring is durable. Simple dog house kits can be ordered starting at about $150.<br><br>Consider the location of the doghouse as well. If your dog sleeps outdoors in cold weather you want to be sure to provide as much insulation as possible. Your pet may be good at keeping themselves warm, but you want them to be comfortable. Carpeting is great, but it attracts insects and is an ideal flea breeding ground. So, you might want to consider using a foam pad instead with a washable vinyl cover.<br><br><br><img border=0 src=../article-photos/jane211.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><br><u>Cat Enclosures</u><br>Many animal-rights organizations endorse the practice of keeping cats indoors, but how do you keep them entertained? Pampering your cat can come in the form of introducing them to the great outdoors with a cat run or enclosure. <br><br>Like doghouses, cat enclosures come in the luxury variety. These large, fenced-in rooms come with a variety of plants, secret hideaway tunnels, even a koi pond! Enclosures can be an add-on to your home, similar to a screen porch, or it can stand alone in the yard, like a giant bird cage. Again, enclosures can be built by a professional for a ton of dough or you can build your own according to your cat's preferences.<br><br>Another option is a cat run. Remember those plastic tunnels at the playground? This is essentially the same idea, though the tunnel is made of mesh. Cat runs allow your pet to explore your backyard without falling prey to disease, automobiles, or the dog next door!<br><br><u>Cat Trees</u><br>Not only will a cat tree keep your cat from scratching your favorite furniture, it can also be a great place for your cat to hang out. Usually covered with carpeting, cat trees come with all sorts of features that cats can't resist; the height of the structure is just one factor. Nowadays cat trees come outfitted with feathers, specialized scratching posts, enclosed hideaways and catnip trays. <br><br>Amenities and the number of "stories" will ultimately determine the price. Expect to pay $50 and up for one, though they are frequently on sale, so shop around.<br><br><u>Devine Divans</u><br>A custom-made bed for your pet is not only an indulgence, but it may also keep them off your furniture! Even if you don't consider yourself a seamstress you can easily build your own dog bed. Get your hands on a pillow pattern, buy some sewing essentials, and you are on your way. Sewing your own bed allows you to match the material to your decor, or the luxury doghouse you have just built! <br><br>If you aren't too keen on building Fido's bed yourself, custom made beds are available in virtually any style or fabric. Although you can find a simple dog bed at any pet store, why not go for an oak trundle bed with 300-thread count sheets?<br> <br><u>Cabana Hammock Time</u><br>Cat hammocks are easy to install and a feline favorite. Some can be mounted onto a windowsill to allow your cat to laze in the sunshine and while keeping an eye on the neighborhood. Other cat hammocks are freestanding or can be placed on the radiator. If you have ever discovered your cat asleep on your laptop, this may be the item for you! They are priced at under $50, and can usually be found at any pet store. <br><br><u>Reptile Retreats</u><br>If your pet is of the reptile variety, he or she needs a good home too. The most important factor in the health and happiness of your pet is temperature. The temperature of the cage or habitat will depend on the animal but if you are in the market to adopt a reptile, make sure his or her home is built first. Keeping a reptile in the cold too long is very bad news.<br>Though heat is important, don't forget to also provide shade. A place where your pet can escape the light is essential. You may also want to provide a branch that he or she can climb-reptiles love surveying their surroundings!<br><br>Substrate is the substance which lines the reptile habitat, and similar to the temperature, it depends on what kind of pet you have. It can consist of ripped strips of newspaper, bark, sand or soil. The most important thing is that you keep the living space clean! You wouldn't want to live in a dirty house, so why should your pet? So, be sure the substrate is easy to change.<br>Finally, make sure the lid is secure! You don't want to find your pet crawling around the house unattended!<br><br>Though we love our pets and want to be around them all of the time, they need a place of their own. Too often we find ourselves yelling at them to get off the furniture, the bed, the window sill, etc., but this can easily be combated by giving them their own retreat. The space needn't be elaborate or expensive, and in the end it will benefit both of you!<br><br><i>For more great project information and advice, please visit us at www.BeJane.com.</i> <br><br> Ask Jane: Pamper Your House Pets
   from Feb 13, 2010



If you've ever had to replace a hard-to-reach light bulb, you'll appreciate this trick from Club member Les Eastep of Rochester, Illinois. Cut away the bottom of an empty water bottle; then use the bottle to hold the light bulb as you screw it into the socket. With the variety of bottles available on the market, you should have little trouble finding one that’s the right size to hold the light bulb snugly.<br><br>For more Cool Tips and Handy Tricks log on to www.handymanclub.com. <br><br><img border=0 src=../article-photos/handy2-11.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br> <br><br><br><br> Handy Tip: Easier Light Bulb Replacement
   from Feb 13, 2010



If your scratch awl isn’t equipped with a removable tip, try this trick from Club member David Pemberton of Longview, Texas. Before placing the awl in a tool belt or bag, slip a plastic hollow-wall anchor over the tool’s point so that you don’t accidentally poke yourself with it.<br><br><i>more Cool Tips and Handy Tricks log on to www.handymanclub.com</i> <br> Handy Tool Tips: Avoid "Awl"-ful Accidents
   from Feb 6, 2010



<img border=0 src=../article-photos/jane-2-4.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><br><br><b>Be Prepared!</b><br>True or not, it certainly seems there are more natural disasters today than ever before. Torrential rains, hurricanes, flooding, tornadoes, and snow storms along the eastern seaboard seem to make headlines every year. If one of these struck in your neighborhood, would you be prepared? Do you have everything you need in case of a fire, flood, earthquake, tropical storm or other emergency?<br><br>The Boy Scouts aren't the only ones preaching the idea of being prepared. The Red Cross, the federal government, and your local emergency officials all suggest you prepare a survival kit for you and your family and stow it in a safe, dry place. So what should go inside your kit?<br><br><b>Preparing an Emergency Kit</b><br>Survival experts will tell you there is not one perfect emergency kit. Your kit should be tailored to the personal needs of you and your family, particularly any medical needs. Aside from prescription medications, everything you need for your kit can be purchased at a sporting goods, discount, drug or grocery store.<br><br><u>Here are a few things you should keep in mind when preparing your kit:</u><br>1. All items should be packed inside individual, sealable plastic baggies to keep them dry.<br>2. If the medications that you take have a shelf life, always keep the newest medication in the kit. As you finish your medication, use the one in your kit and replace it with new medication.<br>3. Inventory and repack each kit quarterly. Make seasonal adjustments and try to keep the kit small and light.<br>4. Pack supplies in backpacks and include enough for three days for each adult and child.<br>5. Do not include weapons, toxic chemicals, or controlled drugs (unless prescribed by a physician.)<br>6. It is always a good idea to pack an additional emergency kit of first aid supplies, flashlight, water and such and keep it in the truck of your car, just in case.<br><br><u>Your kit should also include:</u><br><br><b>Flashlight</b><br>Flashlight with extra batteries, to find your way if the power is out. Until you are certain that there are no gas leaks, do not use candles or any other open flame for emergency lighting.<br><br><b>Battery-powered radio</b><br>Battery-powered radio to provide news about the emergency that may change rapidly as events unfold. You also will be concerned about family and friends in the area and radio reports will give information about the areas most affected. Also keep extra batteries. Or use a hand-cranked radio, which is cheaper than a battery-powered one; some even feature built-in flashlights and chargers for cell phones.<br><br><b>Plastic sheeting and duct tape</b><br>Plastic sheeting and duct tape for sheltering-in-place verses evacuation.<br><br><b>Food</b><br>Your kit should include enough non-perishable food to sustain you (and your family) for at least three days (three meals per day). Choose foods that require no refrigeration, preparation or cooking, and little or no water such as ready-to-eat canned meals, meats, fruits, and vegetables; canned juices; and high-energy foods such as granola bars, protein bars, etc.<br><br><b>Water</b><br>Keep at least one gallon of water per person available, or more if you are on medications that require water or that increase thirst. Store water in plastic containers such as soft drink bottles. Avoid using containers that will decompose or break, such as milk cartons or glass bottles. Rotate your water every few months by using it to water your plants and then refilling with fresh water.<br><br><b>First Aid Supply Kit</b><br>First Aid Supply Kit, as recommended by the Red Cross, a first aid kit at a minimum should include: absorbent compress 5X9" dressing, assorted sizes of adhesive cloth tape (5 yards/17quot;), antibiotic ointment packets, antiseptic wipes, packets of aspirin, non-latex gloves scissors, roller bandage 3", sterile gauze pads and first aid instructions in a booklet.<br><br><b>Additional tools and supplies</b><br>Paper plates and cups, plastic utensils, non-electric can opener, personal hygiene items including a toothbrush, toothpaste, comb, brush, soap, contact lens supplies, and feminine supplies, plastic garbage bags and ties (for personal sanitation uses), at least one complete change of clothing and footwear, including a long-sleeved shirt and long pants, as well as closed-toed shoes or boots. If you wear glasses, keep an extra pair in your kit. You may also want to keep some cash and a credit card in your kit.<br><br>Admittedly, no one likes thinking about disasters. But by preparing well you can create peace of mind. Consider it like your other insurance policies-something you will never actually need but are glad to know you have, just in case.<br><br><i>For more great project information and advice, please visit us at www.BeJane.com</i> <br><br><br><br><br> Create An Emergency Kit For Your Family
   from Feb 6, 2010



<img border=0 src=../article-photos/jane128.jpg hspace=8 vspace=5><br><br><br><br><b>Dear Jane:</b> I have this hideous wallpaper throughout the bottom part of my house that I've been living with for ten years and I really don't want to go through the hassle of taking it down. Is there a way that I can just paint over it? <i>--Suzanne R.</i><br><br><b>Dear Suzanne:</b> We feel your pane! You've been living with wallpaper you've hated for ten years. But, you're finally going to DO something about it! Good for you!<br><br>Then you look around the room and see just how much wallpaper there is to remove. You've heard the rumors, the myths, the stories about how labor intensive removing wallpaper can be. Don't let that stop you, because we've got GREAT news: You may not need to remove it at all!<br><br>Painting over wallpaper is possible. In some cases, even the professionals will opt that over removing it. Good examples would be wallpaper that has been applied to plaster walls or over unprimed drywall. <br><br>Estimate Time: 3 to 5 hours, depending on wall size <br> <br><b><u>Shopping list & Materials:</b></u><br>- Clean sponge <br>- Plastic bucket <br>- Lightweight surfacing compound (otherwise known as "Spackle", you'll probably only need a small container unless there are a great deal of problem areas to cover. <br>- One piece of 220 grit sand paper (also referred as "fine") <br>- 2" Painter's blue masking tape (you will have to decide the number of rolls depending on the area you're working on. Just remember, it's a good thing to have around the house because you'll use it in most projects. So, I'd say... err on the extra side!) <br>- Drop Cloths <br>- Latex or vinyl gloves <br>- Shellac-Based Stain-Blocking primer, tinted in a color close to your paint color <br>- Wallpaper adhesive, small container <br>- Paint <br>- Rollers <br>- Brushes <br>- Paint trays <br>- Paint stirring sticks (2) - optional<br><br><b><u>Things you should already have in your home:</u></b> <br>- Clock radio or portable stereo <br>- Screwdriver, flat head <br>- Rag(s) <br>- Utility knife or razor blade<br><br>Before getting started: Make sure the surface is in good condition and is smooth. To get the best results, check to make sure the wallpaper is securely attached to the wall and that all the seams are close together and firmly attached. If it's not, you can use a bit of wallpaper paste (also known as adhesive, glue or our favorite - "stuff that sticks wallpaper to the wall") to stick it in place. <br><br>Next, paint a test patch area to see if the wallpaper will hold - don't skip this step! If it dries and the wallpaper stays smooth, then you're ready to get started. If the wallpaper starts to break away, that could be an indication that the wallpaper is just too old and brittle. In this case, unless you're going for a really unique textured look, you're probably going to have to remove it. <br><br><u><b>Okay, are you ready? Great! Let's get started:</b></u><br>- Start by wiping down your walls thoroughly with a damp sponge - wallpaper paste dries clear and, like most glues, can cause problems for paint to stick to it. Besides removing old glue, you want to make sure the wallpaper is free of other dust and grime. BUT: Make sure the wallpaper is dry before taking the next steps! <br>- Go to the circuit breaker panel and turn off the power to the room you plan on working in. Hopefully, your circuit breakers are already labeled (so you know which breaker belongs to each room) to make this easy. If not, we suggest plugging in a clock radio or boom box and put the volume up high enough so that you can hear it from the breaker box and can tell when it shuts off. (It's a whole heck of a lot easier than going back and forth to check each time). Check all of the switches and plugs to be certain before proceeding, as some rooms are covered by more than one circuit breaker. <br>- Using your flathead screwdriver, now remove all of the swith/outlet covers from all of the walls that you want to work. Once you've done this, cover or "mask" the outlets and the switches with blue painter's tape. <u>JANE TIP:</u> Fom this point on, we suggest wearing latex or vinyl gloves and safety glasses. Getting wall dust in your contact lenses is no picnic! <br>- Go over the walls with your bare hands to feel for any surface imperfections that will become apparent once the wall is painted. Repair any dents or scratches with a surfacing compound such as Spackle. Let the spackle dry and lightly sand (using 220 grit paper) any areas that don't feel smooth. Remove any residual dust with a damp cloth before continuing. <br>- The last step of preparation is to tape any areas that lie next to the wallpapered area that might get paint on them (ceiling, baseboards, window trim, etc.). So, cover those areas with painter's blue masking tape. Place plastic or cloth drop cloths on the surrounding floors. If you can, try to attach the drop cloths to the tape on the baseboards, this should help keep paint off of the floor. JANE TIP: Disposable plastic drop cloths are usually very inexpensive and easy to manipulate. They are available at any home improvement center. <br><br><u><b>Keep Forging Ahead! The prep is usually the 'hard' part!</u></b><br>- Stir the primer and as long as you've already done your test patch (see "test patch" above), apply it to the walls. This will help the paint "stick" to the wallpaper. <u>Trick of the Trade</u>: When you buy your primer have it tinted to half the amount of the same pigment you are having them put in your paint. It's free and it will allow for faster coverage with the paint and fewer coats of it. Meaning, you'll save $$$!!! <br>- Before applying the paint, you'll want to be 100% certain that the primer is dry, so we find it best to wait 24 hours. Mainly because the wallpaper will absorb the primer and take longer to dry than if you were just painting directly onto the wall. <u>Trick of the Trade</u>: Repair any minor blisters or bubbles that may have formed overnight by slitting them with a utility knife and then glue them to the wall with wallpaper paste. Allow it to dry and wipe off any excess with a damp sponge. <br>- Once all of your spot treatment areas are dry, if the coverage looks good, you're ready to paint! <br>- Make sure to stir the can of paint prior to applying it to the wall. <br>- Give it 24 hours to dry, put back on the outlet and light switch covers and say "bye-bye wallpaper!"<br> <br><b>Great job, Jane! You did it!</b> Now pour yourself a glass of wine, (or beer or juice or water), put on a relaxing CD, and enjoy your new room!<br> <br><i>For more great tips and tricks and project ideas, visit us online at www.BeJane.com</i> <br><br><br>::::second::::<br> Ask Jane: How To Paint Over Wallpaper
   from Jan 29, 2010


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